What is Kemp Jewellery? India's Best-Kept Secret
Ask most people in North India about Kemp jewellery and you'll get a blank look. Ask a South Indian bride, a Bharatanatyam dancer or a collector of traditional Indian jewellery — and their eyes will light up.
Kemp jewellery is one of India's oldest and most spectacular jewellery traditions. And it's been hiding in plain sight for centuries.
Where Does Kemp Jewellery Come From?
Kemp jewellery originates from Tamil Nadu and Karnataka — specifically from the jewellery-making communities of Nagercoil, Thanjavur and Mysore. The word 'Kemp' is derived from the Kannada word for 'red', referring to the deep ruby-red stones that are the hallmark of this style.
Historically, Kemp jewellery was made for Hindu temple rituals — it was used to adorn the idols of goddesses and was worn by devadasis (temple dancers) during ceremonial performances. This is why Kemp pieces so often feature goddess motifs, temple arches, lotus flowers and peacocks — the iconography of South Indian temple art.
What Makes Kemp Jewellery Unique?
Three things set Kemp jewellery apart from every other Indian jewellery style:
- The stones. Traditional Kemp uses Cabochon-cut rubies and emeralds — unpolished, unfaceted stones that glow from within rather than sparkling on the surface. In contemporary Kemp jewellery, high-quality glass Cabochons in deep red, green and occasionally blue replicate this effect beautifully.
- The setting. Kemp stones are set in intricate gold-tone frameworks inspired by temple architecture — layered arches, filigree borders and deity motifs that give each piece a sculptural quality.
- The colour combinations. Red and green is the classic Kemp palette — a combination that appears throughout South Indian temple art and is considered deeply auspicious. The contrast is striking in a way that no other jewellery style achieves.
The Difference Between Kemp and Temple Jewellery
Kemp jewellery and Temple jewellery are closely related but not identical:
- Temple jewellery refers to the broader category of jewellery inspired by temple motifs — it can be in gold, silver or gold-plated finishes, and may or may not use Kemp stones.
- Kemp jewellery specifically refers to pieces that feature the distinctive red (and sometimes green) Cabochon stones in the Kemp tradition. All Kemp jewellery is temple-inspired, but not all temple jewellery is Kemp.
Who Wears Kemp Jewellery?
Kemp jewellery is worn by:
- South Indian brides — a complete Kemp bridal set is a treasured part of Tamil and Karnataka wedding traditions
- Bharatanatyam and other classical dancers — Kemp jewellery is traditional costume jewellery for classical Indian dance performances
- Women celebrating South Indian festivals — Varamahalakshmi, Navratri, Ugadi and Pongal
- Anyone who appreciates traditional Indian craft — Kemp jewellery is increasingly sought after by collectors and fashion-forward women across India
How to Style Kemp Jewellery
- Pair Kemp necklaces and earrings with a classic Kanjivaram or Mysore silk saree for the most traditional look
- For contemporary styling, wear a single Kemp earring with a plain white or cream outfit — the jewellery becomes the focal point
- Kemp bangles and anklets add a festive touch to any South Indian ethnic look without overwhelming the overall aesthetic
- For Bharatanatyam or classical dance, a complete Kemp set — necklace, earrings, maang tikka, bangles and anklets — is traditional and correct
Caring for Kemp Jewellery
Kemp jewellery is more delicate than other styles because of its stone-setting technique. Avoid water, perfume and direct sunlight. Store flat in individual pouches. Clean with a dry, soft cloth only. If a stone loosens, take it to a jeweller experienced with Kemp work — do not try to re-set stones at home.
Shop Kemp-Inspired Jewellery at Abdesigns
At Abdesigns, we carry a growing collection of Kemp-inspired jewellery — temple earrings, necklace sets and bridal pieces featuring the signature red and green stone palette of the Kemp tradition. All handcrafted, nickel-free and available with Cash on Delivery across India.