What is Kemp Jewellery? India's Hidden Gem — The Complete Guide

If you have ever been to a South Indian wedding, a Bharatanatyam performance or a Carnatic music concert, you will have seen Kemp jewellery. Bold, red, magnificent — set in gold and worn in elaborate temple-inspired designs. But few people outside South India know what Kemp actually is, where it comes from, or why it has been treasured for centuries.

This is the complete guide to Kemp jewellery — India's most underappreciated jewellery tradition.

What is Kemp?

Kemp (also spelled Kempu) is the Kannada word for red — and Kemp jewellery refers specifically to jewellery set with vivid red cabochon stones. Historically, genuine Kempu jewellery used actual rubies — cabochon-cut rubies (flat, dome-shaped, unpolished) set in pure gold. The original tradition was born in Karnataka and later spread throughout South India, particularly in Mysore, which was historically the most important centre for Kemp jewellery production.

The History of Kemp Jewellery

Kemp jewellery has its origins in the royal courts of Karnataka, particularly the Vijayanagara Empire (14th–17th century) and later the Mysore Kingdom. Temple devadasis (dancers) and classical performers wore elaborate Kemp jewellery as part of their ceremonial dress — and through this connection, Kemp became permanently associated with South Indian classical arts, temple culture and ceremonial occasions.

The intricate goldsmithing techniques used in traditional Kemp jewellery were passed down through hereditary artisan families in Mysore and surrounding areas. Many of these families continue their craft today.

Traditional Kemp Jewellery Designs

Classic Kemp jewellery features several distinctive elements:

• Red cabochon stones — the defining feature. Historically rubies, now glass or synthetic stones in fashion Kemp jewellery
• Green accent stones — emerald green stones are almost always used alongside Kemp red as a complementary colour
• Gold or antique gold base — Kemp jewellery is always warm-toned, never silver
• Temple motifs — goddess figures, peacocks, lotus flowers and sacred geometry are central to Kemp design
• Elaborate surface work — filigree, granulation, chasing and repousse work on the gold ground

Types of Kemp Jewellery

Kemp Necklace (Haram)

The most elaborate Kemp piece — a choker or long necklace set with rows of red Kemp stones in gold. The Kemp haram is the centrepiece of South Indian bridal and classical dance jewellery. Designs range from the simple (a single row of Kemp stones on a gold chain) to the spectacular (multi-row Kemp harams with temple motifs).

Kemp Earrings (Jimikki / Jhumka)

Kemp jhumkas are some of the most beautiful earrings in Indian jewellery. The combination of deep red and green stones in a gold temple-inspired design creates earrings that are immediately distinctive. Also available as Chandbali, stud and drop styles.

→ Shop Temple Kemp-Style Earrings

Kemp Bangles

Gold bangles set with Kemp red and green stones — worn in stacks for maximum effect. Traditional for South Indian weddings and Bharatanatyam performances.

Kemp Maang Tikka

A forehead ornament set with Kemp stones — essential for South Indian bridal looks and classical dance. The red stone against gold frames the face dramatically.

→ Shop Maang Tikka

Kemp Nath (Nose Ring)

The South Indian nose ring set with Kemp stones — one of the most iconic elements of South Indian bridal jewellery.

Modern Kemp Jewellery — Fashion vs Traditional

Traditional Kemp jewellery uses genuine rubies and real gold — making it extremely expensive and largely inaccessible outside of specialist South Indian jewellers. Modern fashion Kemp jewellery uses high-quality glass or synthetic red stones in gold-plated settings, making the look accessible at a fraction of the traditional cost.

Fashion Kemp jewellery is now widely available and beloved not just in South India but across India and among the global diaspora. The visual impact — vivid red stones in elaborate gold settings — is just as striking in fashion Kemp as in traditional.

Who Wears Kemp Jewellery?

• South Indian brides across Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Kerala
• Bharatanatyam and classical dancers — Kemp jewellery is an essential part of classical South Indian dance costume
• Festival wearers — particularly for Navratri (red/gold on Day 7), Ugadi, Pongal
• Fashion jewellery enthusiasts who love the bold red-and-gold aesthetic across all regions
• NRI South Indian women in the USA, UK, Canada and UAE who want to maintain their cultural jewellery traditions

How to Style Kemp Jewellery

• With South Indian silk sarees: Kanjivaram in deep jewel tones, Narayanpet, Patola — Kemp jewellery looks magnificent with heavy silk
• Colour rule: Kemp red works with burgundy, maroon, deep green, navy, gold and cream outfits. Avoid with orange or pink (colour clash)
• Modern fusion: A single pair of Kemp earrings with a plain kurta creates an effortless, striking look that bridges tradition and everyday style
• Hair advice: Wear hair up or in a bun when wearing Kemp jhumkas — the red and gold against your neck and face needs space to be seen

Frequently Asked Questions

What does Kemp mean in Indian jewellery?

Kemp (or Kempu) is the Kannada word for red. In jewellery, it refers to the traditional South Indian style of setting red cabochon stones (historically rubies, now glass or synthetic stones) in gold, following elaborate temple-inspired designs.

Is Kemp jewellery only for South Indians?

No. While Kemp jewellery originated in South India and is most deeply rooted in South Indian culture, the bold red-and-gold aesthetic is beloved across India and internationally. Anyone who loves Indian jewellery can wear and appreciate Kemp.

What is the difference between Kemp and Kundan jewellery?

Both are stone-set in gold. The key difference is the stone: Kemp uses red (and green) cabochon stones. Kundan uses the specific Kundan stone-setting technique with a wider variety of stone colours. Kundan is more common in North India; Kemp is a South Indian tradition.

Can I wear Kemp jewellery for Navratri?

Absolutely — Day 7 of Navratri is the red colour day, making Kemp jewellery perfect for that evening. The red stones in gold setting are festive, auspicious and deeply traditional.

Where can I buy Kemp jewellery online?

Abdesigns carries temple and Kemp-style jewellery in earrings, necklace sets, maang tikkas and bangles. All pieces are handcrafted, nickel-free and available with COD across India. Browse our temple and Kemp-inspired collection here.