What is Kundan Jewellery? The Complete Guide to India's Most Loved Craft
If you've ever been to an Indian wedding and spotted a bride wearing a breathtaking gold and gemstone set that looked like it belonged in a Mughal painting — that was almost certainly Kundan jewellery.
Kundan is one of the oldest jewellery-making traditions in India, originating over 2,500 years ago in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Today, it remains the gold standard for bridal jewellery across the country — and for good reason.
In this guide, we'll break down everything you need to know about Kundan jewellery: what it is, how it's made, how it differs from Polki and Meenakari, and how to choose the right Kundan piece for your occasion.
What Does "Kundan" Actually Mean?
The word Kundan literally translates to "pure gold" in Sanskrit. In jewellery terms, Kundan refers to a technique where highly refined gold foil (called Kundan) is used to set uncut gemstones — called Polki — into a framework of lac (a natural resin). The result is a jewellery piece with a rich, layered appearance that catches light beautifully without the harshness of modern-cut stones.
What makes Kundan unique is the inlay technique. Instead of prongs or claws holding stones in place (as in modern jewellery), Kundan uses a bed of molten gold-infused lac that permanently cradles each stone. This gives Kundan its characteristic smooth, seamless look.
How is Kundan Jewellery Made?
Traditional Kundan jewellery is entirely handmade, and a single necklace can take a skilled artisan anywhere from 3 days to 3 weeks to complete. Here's the process:
- Ghadi (base frame): An artisan creates the base structure using thin gold sheets hammered into the desired shape.
- Khudai (engraving): The back of each piece is engraved with decorative patterns — this is often where Meenakari enamel work is applied.
- Paadh (lac filling): The framework is filled with molten lac to provide support for the gemstones.
- Kundan setting: Refined gold foil is pressed around each gemstone, securing it into the lac bed without heat or adhesive.
- Finishing: The piece is polished and, if it's a Kundan-Meenakari piece, the enamel back is finished in vivid colours.
Every stone is placed by hand, by eye. There are no machines involved. This is why authentic Kundan jewellery carries the weight and beauty it does.
Kundan vs Polki vs Meenakari — What's the Difference?
These three terms are often confused because they frequently appear together. Here's the simple breakdown:
- Kundan — refers to the gold inlay technique used to set stones.
- Polki — refers to the uncut, flat diamonds (or diamond-like stones) that are set using the Kundan technique.
- Meenakari — refers to the colourful enamel work applied to the reverse side of Kundan jewellery.
So a piece can be all three at once: a Kundan-set Polki necklace with Meenakari work on the back. In fashion jewellery, Polki stones are typically simulated using glass or resin, making the look accessible at a fraction of the price of real diamonds.
Why Do Brides Choose Kundan Jewellery?
Three reasons: weight, warmth, and tradition.
Kundan pieces have a distinctive weight and presence that modern jewellery often lacks. The warm gold tones complement every Indian skin tone. And Kundan has been bridal jewellery in India for over two millennia — wearing it carries the weight of that history.
Kundan also works with every bridal outfit. Whether you're wearing a heavy Banarasi saree, a Kanjeevaram, a lehenga or a sharara — Kundan is the one jewellery style that never looks out of place.
How to Style Kundan Jewellery
- For weddings: Full Kundan sets (necklace + earrings + maang tikka) in gold and red stone work best with red or maroon bridal outfits.
- For festive occasions: A single Kundan choker paired with simple gold jhumkas creates a balanced, elegant look.
- For daily wear: Light Kundan studs or small pendant sets bring tradition into everyday outfits without overwhelming them.
- With sarees: Kundan necklace sets pair beautifully with Kanjivaram, Banarasi and Paithani sarees.
How to Care for Kundan Jewellery
Because Kundan uses lac as a base material, it needs more care than metal-only jewellery.
- Never expose Kundan jewellery to water, perfume or sweat directly — the lac can soften and stones may shift.
- Store each piece individually in a soft pouch or cloth, not loose in a jewellery box where pieces can scratch each other.
- Clean with a soft dry cloth only — never use jewellery cleaning solutions.
- If a stone falls out, do not try to reset it at home. Take it to a jeweller familiar with Kundan work.
Shop Abdesigns' Kundan Collection
At Abdesigns, we carry an extensive range of Kundan-inspired jewellery — from full bridal sets to lightweight daily-wear earrings. All pieces are handcrafted, nickel-free and skin-friendly. Available with Cash on Delivery across India.
Browse Kundan Earrings | Browse Kundan Necklace Sets | Browse Kundan Mangalsutras
